Stretching for just over 10 miles, and at almost a mile wide, Windermere is not just the largest of the lakes, but also England’s largest natural lake. The main town, Bowness, is about mid-way along the lake’s eastern shore, and a natural place to start exploring the lake. The busy promenade around Bowness Bay has an almost seaside feel to it, and is a great place to enjoy a coffee or an ice cream, and to take in the views. One of the best ways to see the lake is of course to go on the water; Windermere Lake Cruises offer a choice of routes from Bowness Bay, and for anyone who has yet to venture further north, the cruise to Ambleside at the head of the lake is recommended for the best views of the mountains. The largest boats are quite glamorous vessels with lounges and bar areas, but there are also sailings on smaller cruisers, as well as rowing boat hire nearby.
Just south of Bowness a ‘chain-ferry’ takes cars across the lake bound for Hawkshead and Coniston. Pedestrians and cyclists are also able to take the ferry, and for anyone wanting a quick break from the hustle and bustle of Bowness, the track along the western shore of Windermere is an excellent little escape. Heading north, the path stretches for just over 3 miles to Wray Castle, where the peace and quiet makes an amazing contrast with the busy eastern shore. Or for a short up-hill walk, the ruined folly of Claife Viewing Station stands on the hillside just above Ferry Point, and is well worth a visit.
One of Lakeland’s architectural curiosities stands on Belle Isle, Windermere’s largest island which almost straddles the lake near Bowness. This is the Round House, one of only a handful of truly circular houses in England. It was built in the early 1770s in a classical Roman style, with the intention of improving the landscape.
Rising above Bowness itself is the little, rocky summit of Brant Fell. At a height of just 191m, this short walk from the town gives one of the best views across the whole of Lake Windermere.
About a mile north-east of Bowness is the busy little town of Windermere. The town’s name has often been a source of confusion, being so far away from the lake. Two hundred years ago there was just the small village of Birthwaite here, but when the railway arrived here, the town sprang up taking its name from the railway station. Just above the station is one of Lakeland’s most famous viewpoints: Orrest Head. Like Brant Fell, Orrest Head is also of modest height (238m) but has endeared itself to generations of travellers who arrived and departed by train, as the short walk up to the top was often possible between connections.
Two miles north of Bowness is Brockhole, the National Park’s visitor centre. This was originally the holiday home of a wealthy Manchester industrialist named William Gaddum; it was built in the 1890s in the fashionable Arts and Crafts style, and sits in 30 acres of parkland and listed gardens which stretch down to the shores of Windermere. These days Brockhole offers a choice of out-door activities including zip-wires and boat hire, all with fantastic views of the lake and mountains.
With the arrival of the railway at Windermere in the late 1840s, travel to The Lakes suddenly became a lot easier. Not only did this start a new age of tourism for the area, but also a wave of building large holiday homes for wealthy business men. One area which was particularly favoured for this was the eastern shores of Windermere, with many of the houses built in the Arts and Crafts style. One excellent example is Blackwell, which stands on a hillside just south of Bowness; the building is open to the public and doubles up as an art gallery.
In 1869 a second railway arrived at Windermere, this time at Lakeside, at the very southern end of the lake. It was built by the Furness Railway Company, and connected with the main rail network near Ulverston. Although the line carried a lot of freight, including bobbins from the Bobbin Mill at Stott Park, it was also built with the intention of bringing tourists to the lake for boat trips. The line closed in the 1960s, but 3½ miles of track was preserved and re-opened in May 1973 as the Lakeside and Haverthwaite Railway. This is run as a steam railway, and keeps its historic link with Windermere Lake Cruises at Lakeside.
One wealthy industrialist who took advantage of the new transport links was Henry Schneider. Schneider had made his money from the iron industry at Barrow-in-Furness, and was co-founder of the Furness Railway; his daily commute to work in Barrow took that relatively new concept to a whole new level. He lived at Belsfield House, a huge mansion overlooking Bowness Bay, now the Belsfield Hotel. The first stage of the 22 mile journey was to take his personal steam yacht The Esperance down to Lakeside, enjoying breakfast en route. At Lakeside he transferred to the train, travelling in his private carriage to his offices in Barrow. Schneider played a vital part in developing Barrow, and four years after his death his statue was erected in the town.
Just across the foot of Windermere from Lakeside rises Gummer’s How. Although less than a third of the height of Lakeland’s highest mountains, Gummer’s How is the highest point for several miles around, giving it wide-ranging views over Windermere and the gentle, rolling hills of the south-eastern Lakes. It is a fairly easy climb from the top of the steep little lane of Fell Foot Brow where there is a good parking area.
East of Gummer’s How are two of Lakeland’s quieter valleys, the Winster Valley and the Lyth Valley. There are no lakes or high mountains here, giving both valleys a very different feel to the classic landscapes of the Lake District. In fact, with the limestone escarpment of Whitbarrow separating the two valleys, there is perhaps more in common with the Yorkshire Dales here. One curious feature can be found below the crags of Whitbarrow in the tiny hamlet of Beck Head; here a stream emerges from below a limestone crag, a miniature version of Malham Cove.
The Lyth Valley is famous for its damsons, a fruit related to plums but smaller and hardier, and a popular ingredient in jams and chutneys, and for flavouring gins. Damsons are celebrated every year in the valley with Damson Day, a festival held in the Spring when the trees are in blossom.
At the north end of the Lyth Valley near Crook are the remains of St Catherine’s Old Church which stands on a little rocky hill just west of the village. Dating to the early 17th Century, the building became unstable and was demolished in the 1880s. A new church was built nearby, but the bell-tower survived, still standing on its little hill.
